What is an Asscher cut gem?

What is an Asscher cut gem?

The Asscher cut is a mesmerizing and sophisticated diamond or gemstone shape known for its geometric precision, step-cut faceting, and Art Deco allure. Often called the "square emerald cut," the Asscher cut combines vintage charm with modern brilliance, making it a favourite for engagement rings and heirloom jewellery.

In this  guide, we will explore:

  1. The History of the Asscher Cut
  2. Anatomy of an Asscher Cut Gem
  3. Asscher Cut vs. Emerald Cut: Key Differences
  4. Why Choose an Asscher Cut? Pros and Cons
  5. How to Evaluate an Asscher Cut Diamond
  6. Best Settings for Asscher Cut Gems
  7. Famous Asscher Cut Gemstones
  8. Care and Maintenance Tips

By the end, you’ll understand why this unique cut is treasured by collectors and jewellery enthusiasts alike.

1. The history of the Asscher cut

The Asscher cut is one of the newer styles of gemstone presentation available today. However, its appearance is becoming increasingly seen as an historic style.

Let’s take a look at where this gemstone cutting style came from and how it evolved.

Origins in the early 20th century

  • Created in 1902 by the Asscher Brothers (Joseph and Abraham Asscher) of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam.
  • Originally called the "Asscher Square Brilliant Cut," it was designed to maximize brilliance in a square shape.
  • Gained fame in the 1920s–1930s during the Art Deco movement, where geometric shapes were highly fashionable.

The Asscher family legacy

The Asschers were renowned for cutting legendary diamonds, including:

  • The Cullinan Diamond -- the largest rough diamond ever found, later part of the British Crown Jewels.
  • The Excelsior Diamond -- another historic gem.
  • The modern Asscher cut (with 74 facets) was refined in 2001 by Edward and Joop Asscher to enhance sparkle.

Popularity today

  • A favourite among vintage jewellery lovers and modern minimalists.
  • Often seen in celebrity engagement rings (e.g., Elizabeth Taylor’s Krupp Diamond was Asscher-cut).

2. Anatomy of an Asscher cut gem

The Asscher cut is a square step-cut gem with distinctive faceting and deep light play. The style of the cut is a little dated now, but that can also play in its favour if a designer wants to give a brand new gemstone an historic feel.

Key features

The Asscher cut is easy to identify because it specifically relates to square gems. Beyond that basic identifier, here are some of the defining characteristics of an Asscher cut diamond or gemstone:

Feature

Description

Shape

Square with cropped corners

Facets

58–74 (modern versions have more facets for extra sparkle)

Crown

High with concentric step facets

Pavilion

Deep with parallel step cuts

Table

Large, open, and flat

X-Pattern

Visible in well-cut stones (from the pavilion facets)

Ideal proportions

Measurement

Ideal Range

Table Size

60–68%

Depth Percentage

60–68%

Crown Height

12–15%

Girdle Thickness

Thin to slightly thick

A poorly cut Asscher can appear too dark or lack the signature "hall of mirrors" effect.

3. Asscher cut vs. emerald cut: Key differences

The Asscher cut is a variation on the emerald cut, which has existed for longer. That means while all Asscher cut gems are technically also emerald cut, not all emerald cut gems are Asscher cut. Both cut styles are classified as step cuts, which has longer edges to its facets than a brilliant cut.

Here’s how to tell the difference.

Feature

Asscher Cut

Emerald Cut

Shape

Square with cropped corners

Rectangular with cropped corners

Facets

58–74 (more sparkle)

50–58 (larger step facets)

Brilliance

More fire due to X-pattern

Less sparkle, more clarity-dependent

Appearance

Concentric square facets

Long, linear facets

Popular Era

Art Deco (1920s)

Classic (older origin)

Best for you?

  • Choose Asscher for vintage glamour and extra sparkle.
  • Choose emerald for sleek, understated elegance.

4. Why choose an Asscher cut? Pros and cons

If you can’t decide whether to go for an Asscher cut, try considering this list of good and bad points to the style.

Advantages

✔ Timeless Elegance – Perfect for vintage and modern designs.
✔ Unique Sparkle – The X-pattern creates mesmerizing light play.
✔ Clarity Hiding – Step cuts mask inclusions better than brilliant cuts.
✔ Finger Flattering – Square shape balances shorter fingers.

Disadvantages

✖ Less Common – Harder to find than round or princess cuts.
✖ Shows Colour – Lower-colour grades (J–K) may appear tinted.
✖ Requires Precision – Poor symmetry ruins the X-pattern effect.

5. How to evaluate an Asscher cut diamond

Jewellers use categories called the ”4Cs” when assessing gems. Only one of these categories relates to cut. However, we have listed all four to put the Asscher cut consideration into context.

The 4 Cs for Asscher Cuts

  1. Cut (Most Important)
    • Look for sharp symmetry and a clear X-pattern.
    • Avoid windowed or dull centres (sign of poor angles).
  1. Colour
    • G–H (near colourless) is ideal for white diamonds.
    • Fancy colours (yellow, blue) work beautifully.
  1. Clarity
    • VS2–SI1 is safe (inclusions less visible in step cuts).
    • Avoid flaws near the corners (risk of chipping).
  1. Carat Weight
    • 1.00–2.00 ct = Classic engagement ring size.
    • 3.00+ ct = Luxurious statement piece.

Certification

Always choose GIA or AGS-certified stones for accurate grading.

6. Best settings for Asscher cut gems

Assher cut is a very distinctive style and so you wouldn’t use it for a side decoration on a piece of jewellery. Thus, it is usually used for a feature stone on a ring, bracelet, pair of earrings, or necklace pendant.

1. Solitaire with Corner Prongs

    • Protects the cropped corners while showcasing the gem.

2. Halo Setting

    • Enhances sparkle and makes the centre stone appear larger.

3. Three-Stone Ring

    • Adds balance with trapezoid or baguette side stones.

4. Bezel Setting

    • Modern and secure (great for active lifestyles).

7. Famous Asscher cut gemstones

  • The Krupp Diamond (Elizabeth Taylor’s Ring) – 33.19-carat Asscher-cut diamond.
  • The Ashberg Diamond – A historic 102-carat Asscher-cut gem.
  • Queen Maxima of the Netherlands’ Engagement Ring – Features a large Asscher-cut diamond.

8. Care and maintenance

  • Clean with mild soap and a soft brush (avoid ultrasonic cleaners).
  • Store separately to prevent scratches.
  • Check prongs annually (corners are vulnerable).

Conclusion

The Asscher cut is a masterpiece of gemstone design, blending Art Deco heritage, geometric precision, and unique brilliance. Its hall-of-mirrors effect, vintage appeal, and flattering square shape make it a standout choice for engagement rings and collector’s jewellery.

The style was created by the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam, which is one of the most famous diamond enterprises in the world. 

The Asscher diamond cuttery

Image by Ceinturion, CC BY-SA 3.0

When selecting an Asscher-cut diamond, prioritize cut symmetry, certification, and protective settings. With proper care, an Asscher-cut gem becomes a timeless heirloom that dazzles for generations.

 

 

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