What is a princess cut gem?
The princess cut is one of the most popular diamond shapes in modern jewellery, renowned for its brilliant sparkle, clean lines, and contemporary elegance. As the second most sought-after diamond cut after the round brilliant, the princess cut combines geometric precision with exceptional light performance, making it a favourite for engagement rings and statement jewellery.
This guide will explore:
- The History of the Princess Cut
- Anatomy of a Princess Cut Gem
- Princess Cut vs. Other Diamond Shapes
- Why Choose a Princess Cut? Pros and Cons
- How to Evaluate a Princess Cut Diamond
- Best Settings for Princess Cut Gems
- Famous Princess Cut Gemstones
- Care and Maintenance Tips
By the end, you'll understand why this modern classic remains a top choice for those seeking brilliance and sophistication.
1. The history of the princess cut
The princess cut is one of the newest treatments for gemstones and its current form was only recently settled. The cut is particularly popular for diamonds and has become a prominent option for engagement rings.
Origins in the 1960s–1980s
- The princess cut was developed in the 1960s by diamond cutter Arpad Nagy, who called it the "profile cut."
- Refined in 1980 by Betazel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz, who optimized its faceting for maximum brilliance.
- Originally named the "square modified brilliant cut," it was later marketed as the "princess cut" to appeal to buyers.
Popularity boom
- Gained traction in the 1990s as a modern alternative to round brilliants.
- Today, it accounts for 20–30% of engagement ring sales, second only to round diamonds.
Why the name "princess"?
- The term evokes elegance and royalty, though it has no historical connection to actual princesses.
- Its sharp corners and regal symmetry align with the "princess" aesthetic.
2. Anatomy of a princess cut gem
The princess cut is a square or rectangular shape with pointed corners and brilliant-style faceting.
Key features
Here is how the princess cut is defined.
|
Feature |
Description |
|
Shape |
Square or slightly rectangular |
|
Facets |
50–58 (chevron or crushed-ice patterns) |
|
Corners |
Sharp 90-degree angles (require protection) |
|
Crown |
Varies by cutter; some have horizontal facets |
|
Pavilion |
Vertical facets that create sparkle |
Ideal proportions
|
Measurement |
Ideal Range |
|
Table Size |
60–75% |
|
Depth Percentage |
65–75% |
|
Length-to-Width Ratio |
1.00–1.05 (square) or 1.10–1.20 (rectangular) |
|
Girdle Thickness |
Medium (avoid extremely thin or thick) |
A well-cut princess diamond should have even light distribution without dark spots.
3. Princess cut vs. other diamond shapes
The princess cut is very successful and currently, only the round brilliant cut is more popular. Here is a quick summary of the main features of each cut type.
|
Cut |
Shape |
Brilliance |
Best For |
|
Princess |
Square, sharp corners |
High sparkle |
Modern solitaires |
|
Round Brilliant |
Circular |
Maximum brilliance |
Classic rings |
|
Cushion |
Square, rounded edges |
Soft brilliance |
Vintage styles |
|
Emerald |
Rectangular, step-cut |
Less sparkle, more clarity |
Art Deco designs |
|
Radiant |
Square/rectangular, cropped corners |
Intense sparkle |
Coloured diamonds |
Best Alternative: The radiant cut offers similar brilliance with protected corners.
4. Why choose a princess cut? Pros and cons
If you are considering a princess cut gem for the centrepiece of your jewellery purchase, consider our list of good and bad points to aide your decision making.
Advantages
✔ Exceptional Sparkle – Nearly rivals round brilliants in fire.
✔ Modern Appeal – Clean, geometric lines suit contemporary tastes.
✔ Cost-Effective – Typically 20–30% cheaper than round diamonds of equal carat weight.
✔ Illusion of Size – Appears larger than rounds of the same carat weight.
Disadvantages
✖ Vulnerable Corners – Prone to chipping if not properly set.
✖ Shows Colour More – Lower-colour grades (J–K) may appear slightly tinted.
✖ Bow-Tie Effect – Some display a dark central area if poorly cut.
5. How to evaluate a princess cut diamond
Jewellers evaluate diamonds by four assessments, which all begin with the letter “C.” Each category has its own scale and terminology. Here is a rundown of the four Cs when applied to princess cut.
The 4 Cs for Princess Cuts
1. Cut (Most Important)
- Look for symmetry and even facet patterns.
- Avoid excessive bow-tie effects.
2. Colour
- G–H (near colourless) is ideal for white diamonds.
- Fancy colours (yellow, pink) work beautifully.
3. Clarity
- VS2–SI1 is usually eye-clean.
- Avoid inclusions near corners.
4. Carat Weight
- 0.75–2.00 ct = Popular for engagement rings.
Certification
Always choose GIA or AGS-certified stones.
6. Best Settings for Princess Cut Gems
A princess cut jewel is frequently found at the centre of a piece. Here’s how the gemstone can be set.
1. Four-Prong Solitaire
- Protects corners while showcasing the diamond.
2. Halo Setting
- Enhances sparkle and makes the centre stone appear larger.
3. Bezel Setting
- Fully protects the edges (great for active lifestyles).
4. Three-Stone Ring
- Adds balance with trapezoid or round side stones.
7. Famous princess cut gemstones
- Kate Middleton’s First Engagement Ring – A 12-carat princess-cut sapphire.
- Beyoncé’s 18-Carat Princess Cut Ring – Gifted by Jay-Z in 2008.
8. Care and maintenance
- Clean with mild soap and water.
- Avoid hard impacts (corners are delicate).
- Store separately to prevent scratches.
Conclusion
The princess cut is a brilliant, modern, and cost-effective choice for those who love geometric elegance with maximum sparkle. Its sharp angles, contemporary appeal, and near-round brilliance make it a standout for engagement rings.
When selecting a princess-cut diamond, prioritize cut quality, certification, and protective settings for a gem that will dazzle for a lifetime.