What is a marquise cut gem?

The marquise cut (also called the navette cut) is one of the most distinctive and elegant gemstone shapes in jewellery. Known for its elongated, boat-like silhouette with pointed ends, this cut maximizes carat weight and creates a flattering, finger-lengthening effect when set in rings.

In this guide, we will explore:

1. The History of the Marquise Cut
2. Anatomy of a Marquise Cut Gem
3. Why Choose a Marquise Cut?
4. Marquise Cut vs. Other Diamond Shapes
5. How to Evaluate a Marquise Cut Gem
6. Best Settings for Marquise Cut Gems
7. Famous Marquise Cut Gemstones
8. Care and Maintenance Tips

By the end, you’ll understand why this unique cut remains a timeless choice for engagement rings and statement jewellery.

1. The history of the marquise cut

The marquise cut has an aristocratic background.

Origins in 18th-century France

• The marquise cut was created in the 1740s under King Louis XV of France.
• Inspired by the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour, the king’s mistress.
• Designed to resemble a boat (navette in French), giving it an alternative name: the navette cut.

Evolution over time

• Initially popular in Georgian and Victorian jewellery as a centre stone for intricate designs.
• Gained renewed popularity in the 1970s–1980s as a bold, glamorous choice.
• Today, it’s a favourite for modern and vintage-inspired engagement rings.

2. Anatomy of a marquise cut gem

A well-cut marquise gem has 56–58 facets (similar to a round brilliant) but in an elongated shape. An important distinction is the point at each end, which distinguishes the style from an oval-cut gem.

Key components

To understand the features of a gemstone, you need to learn a little industry parlance.

Part	Description
Length-to-Width Ratio	Typically 1.75:1 to 2.25:1 (affects how slender it appears).
Pointed Ends	Two sharp tips (must be protected in settings).
Crown & Pavilion	Angled to maximize brilliance (similar to round brilliants).
Bow-Tie Effect	A dark area in the centre (common in marquise cuts; minimized in well-cut stones).

Ideal proportions

Professional jewellery designers know the rules on how to make a gem look good and the dimensions of the proportions are key to ensuring that a cut gem doesn’t look unusual. There are the most important rules when cutting a gemstone in the marquise style.

Feature	Ideal Range
Table Size	53–63%
Depth Percentage	58–62%
Crown Height	12–15%
Pavilion Depth	43–45%

A poorly cut marquise can look too flat, too deep, or have a prominent bow-tie.

3. Why choose a marquise cut?

Marquise cut gems are available as solitaire rings, as elements in a complicated design, or as a central feature surrounded by smaller gems. So, you might encounter a marquise cut gemstone and not particularly notice it or it could be the key feature of a product.

Here are the good and bad points about this style of gemstone.

Advantages

✔ Elongates the Finger – The tapered shape makes hands appear more slender.
✔ Looks Larger Than Its Carat Weight – Due to its elongated surface area.
✔ Unique & Vintage Appeal – Stands out from common round or princess cuts.
✔ Great for Halo & Cluster Settings – Enhances sparkle with side stones.

Disadvantages

✖ Pointed Ends Can Chip – Requires protective settings (v-prongs).
✖ Bow-Tie Effect – Some darkness in the centre is common.
✖ Harder to Find – Fewer options than round or oval cuts.

Although it is one of the main cuts for gemstones, marquise cuts are relatively rare and that factor itself can e appealing. Particularly if you get a solitaire or a piece of jewellery with a marquis cut gem as its central feature, you can be confident that you won’t encounter someone else wearing the same design.

4. Marquise cut vs. other diamond shapes

Marquise isn’t the only option available for a gemstone cut and you can learn about other styles here on the Cooper Jewellery and Watches Blog.

Many jewellery designs will include a range of diamond shapes. Here are the distinctive features of each.

Cut	Shape	Brilliance	Best For
Marquise	Elongated with points	High sparkle	Vintage/modern rings
Round Brilliant	Circular	Maximum brilliance	Classic engagement rings
Oval	Elongated rounded ends	High brilliance	Finger coverage
Emerald	Rectangular step-cut	Less sparkle, more clarity	Art Deco styles
Pear	Teardrop shape	Mixed brilliance	Unique solitaires

Best Alternative: The oval cut offers similar elongation but without pointed ends.

5. How to evaluate a marquise cut gem

Jewellers have their own sets of standards and they can be difficult to learn. These guidelines cover different aspects of a gem and range them for quality and value. Each category of assessment has a different scale and terminology.

The 4 Cs for Marquise Diamonds

1. Cut (Most Important)

• Look for symmetry (both sides should mirror perfectly).
• Avoid excessive bow-tie effect (dark shadow across the centre).

2. Colour

• Near-colourless (G–H) is ideal for white diamonds.
• Fancy colours (yellow, pink) can hide tint better.

3. Clarity

• VS2–SI1 is a good balance (inclusions less visible in marquise cuts).
• Avoid flaws near the tips (risk of chipping).

4. Carat Weight

• 0.75–1.50 ct = Popular for engagement rings.
• 2.00+ ct = Dramatic statement piece.

Certification

Always choose GIA or AGS-certified stones for accurate grading.

5. Best settings for marquise cut gems

You are most likely to encounter marquise cut gems in the following settings:

1. Solitaire with V-Prongs

• Protects the tips while keeping focus on the stone.

2. Halo Setting

• Enhances size and sparkle (popular in vintage designs).

3. Three-Stone Ring

• Adds balance with trapezoid or round side stones.

4. East-West Setting

• Worn horizontally for a modern twist.

7. Famous marquise cut gemstones

• The Koh-i-Noor Diamond -- Originally cut as a marquise, now an oval.
• Catherine Zeta-Jones’ Engagement Ring -- 10-carat marquise diamond from Michael Douglas.
• Victoria Beckham’s Marquise Ring -- A stunning 15-carat diamond.

8. Care and maintenance

• Avoid hard knocks (tips are vulnerable).
• Clean with mild soap & soft brush.
• Store separately to prevent scratches.
• Regular prong checks to secure the points.

Conclusion

The marquise cut is a timeless, elegant, and flattering choice for those who want a unique yet brilliant gemstone. Its elongated shape, vintage charm, and ability to appear larger than its carat weight make it a standout option for engagement rings and statement jewellery.

The marquise cut was named in honour of Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, Marquise de Pompadour, one of the most stylish women in history.

Madame de Pompadour by François Boucher - Google Arts & Culture, Public Domain

When selecting a marquise diamond, prioritize cut symmetry, protective settings, and certification. With proper care, a marquise gem will remain a dazzling heirloom for generations.